Amanzon

Postcard from the Amazon

Dear Indosole, I am writing to you from the Amazon. Its been a crazy trip to get here, Bali-Kuala-Paris-Madrid-Rio-Saopaolo-Belem and finally Macapa where the journey continues by boat. It took me almost 4 days of traveling by plane, bus, taxi, and boat to get to the opening of the amazon river where the Famous Pororoca tidal bore starts. Apart from all the traveling, the trip is exactly how i like them: lost in the middle of nowhere, with a hammock as a bed, surrounded by the craziest wildlife, and going to surf the most original type of wave. We surfed every day but unfortunately the wave didn't come as big as we hoped. Luckily the Ocean Nomads team and I managed to film every spectacular moment of this crazy adventure. On the 3rd day of surfing i got ripped out of the boat by the leash and board of another surfer that lost balance and fell off while passing the wave. The impact was huge i thought i was dead and then that the fins cut my head really bad, but by luck i just got bruised up pretty bad. Thinking i survived a traumatic incident a few minutes later i found out that Ugo the co-host of the show got crushed by a jet ski and was badly injured. So we rushed back to the boat to find him almost paralyzed thinking he broke his back or hip. He left instantly to the nearest hospital that sent him back to Macapa to get X-rays. I stayed back with the film crew for the last day of surf because there was no boats to bring us back with him. With no news hoping for the best we met him back at the hotel in Macapa where we found him better but still limping. I guess all this is part of the adventure. I am on my way to Rio now with a 2m swell coming this week-end so i will send you another post card soon….Stay stoked. Aloha, Teiki